On Patrol

WITH DOZENS OF OSCE SMM PA- TROLS GOING OUT EVERY DAY ALL ACROSS UKRAINE, MANY IN HIGH- RISK AREAS IN THE EAST, ON PA- TROL OFFERS A REMARKABLE IN- SIGHT NOT ONLY INTO THE WORK OF THE BIGGEST OSCE MISSION ON THE GROUND – AND THE MEN AND WOMEN WHO SERVE IT AND THE WIDER CAUSE OF PEACE – BUT ALSO INTO SOME OF THE PEOPLE AND ISSUES THAT DEFINE UKRAINE AND THE CRISIS IT ENDURES. CONTENTS

Delta 9 Patrol: Olenivka Checkpoint 4

The Long Road Home 8

Making Connections on the Contact Line 12

A view from above 16

The Full Picture: an all-female SMM patrol on the contact line in eastern Ukraine 20

Technical Monitoring on the Contact Line: making it work for people 24

Building long-term relations 28

A place to mingle – The Kakhovka Roma Youth Centre 32

Preparing for the Jewish New Year: SMM on Patrol in Uman 36

Multiculturalism as a strength — on patrol in Zakarpattia 40

Gaining a deeper understanding of Kharkiv’s Roma community 44

Wealth found in diversity: On patrol in the Chernivtsi region 48

All hands on deck 52

A new home in an unfamiliar place: SMM reaches out to Internally Displaced Persons 56  DELTA 9 PATROL: OLENIVKA CHECKPOINT

DONETSK REGION

4 For Elena, patrol leader for Delta 9, the day begins with a morn- ing briefing at 7:30 at the SMM’s Donetsk patrol hub, where she receives the latest operational instructions as well as a security update. Although the ceasefire has been largely holding since 27 July, following strengthening measures adopted by the Trilateral Contact Group, the situation remains tense. SMM patrols, in par- ticular around the Donetsk Filtration Station some 16 kilometres north, have been recording ceasefire violations on a daily basis, albeit in relatively low numbers. In addition, the global COVID-19 pandemic has brought new challenges. While Elena is at the briefing, drivers are busy disin- fecting the patrol vehicles. All patrol members also wear masks and gloves and practice social distancing if remote meetings with interlocutors cannot be held. “We are taking all necessary precau- tions,” Elena says. An experienced investigative police officer who also worked as a legal officer for EULEX Kosovo, Elena has been with the Mission since October 2019. She has travelled widely throughout the region, and patrolled along the contact line dozens of times. Today’s patrol will take her and her small team – reduced in numbers as a preventative measure in the face of COVID-19 – to Olenivka. There, one checkpoint held by the armed formations op- erates two days a week. It is the only place for civilians to cross the contact line in Donetsk region since July when the other three checkpoints that exist in Donetsk region were closed. The closure of the checkpoints has led to a 90% decrease in the number of crossings and has further compounded problems for people to receive their pensions, access education or medical treatment, obtain key documents or visit family, friends or property. Thirty minutes after leaving the hub, the patrol arrives at Olenivka. In comparison to times prior to the introduction of mea- sures declared by the sides as COVID-related, Olenivka check- point looks deserted, with about a dozen cars waiting to cross and a handful of people filling out the documents required to cross the contact line. In the past, 200 to 300 cars used to line up in the morning at the checkpoint, and hundreds of people would

5 arrive by bus and minivan in on the other side of the line, order to make the journey to people unable to take up job government-controlled areas. offers and others who need to With people now having to care for aging relatives. It is, pre-register and agree not says Al, Donetsk Monitoring to return until the end of the Team’s media focal point, quarantine period – currently typical of what patrols to an open-ended commitment – Olenivka checkpoint have been evidently few people consider hearing since the early days of it a price worth paying. the pandemic. “Our observa- As soon as the monitors tions are reflected in Mission park their vehicles and begin reports, and we refer specific to survey the area, an el- cases to relevant interna- derly man approaches them. tional organizations which can Jennifer, a human rights ad- provide help,” he says. vocate by background, listens As dusk approaches, Delta to his story. His grandson has 9 returns to the patrol hub died, and he wants to cross in Donetsk city, where Elena the contact line to attend the and Jennifer will write their funeral, but he has yet to re- patrol report. “It can be in- ceive permission from the credibly frustrating, knowing armed formations. As he does that some people will have to not have a SIM card that works sleep out in the open tonight, in areas not controlled by the waiting and hoping to cross Government, he is unable to the contact line the next time call the office processing his the checkpoint opens,” Elena application. says as the patrol moves out. During the course of the day, “With an improved security sit- the patrol will hear many such uation, I’m just hoping for an stories: a family seeking to re- improved humanitarian situ- unite a child with his mother ation, too.”

6 7  THE LONG ROAD HOME

DONETSK REGION

8 The three-vehicle patrol turns right after exiting the Kramatorsk hub. In the second vehicle, Steve is at the wheel, accompanied by two colleagues; Liudmyla from Ukraine and Paulo from Italy. “Un- til we get close to the contact line, the greatest danger we face is the road,” he says. As if to make the point, an oncoming Lada lurches towards the convoy, its driver apparently more afraid of a large pothole than a moving five-ton armoured vehicle. Later, at the Maiorsk entry-exit checkpoint, as soldiers check the documents of thousands of people crossing the contact line, the patrol pulls in. No one gets out just yet. Steve has already seen the preliminary overnight results from the SMM static camera at Maiorsk, outlined by Hamdija, a Bosnian security officer, at the morning briefing at the hub. Colleagues in Kyiv manning screens indeed had observed a calm situation overnight around Maiorsk but things can change in an instant. Steve has the door slightly cracked, listening and watching for anything that could indicate the unpredictable threat level. When Fiona, the patrol leader, gives the all-clear, most of the patrol proceeds to nearby rest stations where they engage with elderly people seeking shelter and rest from the sweltering heat

9 Steve radios ahead for the latest security update (OSCE/Tatiana Bedros)

in summer and freezing cold in winter as they make their journey across the contact line. Many tell the patrol members that they make the journey every two months to receive their pensions, but some never make it. Over the preceding winter, over 20 el- derly people had in fact died of natural causes, their aged bodies unable to take the stressful journey involving exposure to the ele- ments and the danger of mines and potential shelling. Steve and the other drivers – Ferenc from Hungary and Richard from the UK – stay with the vehicles. He radios colleagues in Svitlodarsk to see what is going on in nearby Novoluhanske, the final destination of the patrol. The news is not good. “Our boots on the ground there” had been recording incessant shelling for the previous few hours, and already one civilian is reported injured. The patrol leader would make the call but it didn’t look good for the patrol completing the task as planned. “When something like this kicks off, there’s no telling where and when it’ll end,” Steve says. He himself had recently been on a seven-day rotation at the

10 Svitlodarsk Forward Patrol Base when nearby outgoing mortar fire was followed by return artillery fire. Steve – who was a combat medic in a previous life and now holds a degree in para medicine – knows only too well what he’s talking about. “When you’ve seen what these weapons and mines can do to people, there is no such thing as too much security awareness,” he says. “There’s no way to completely avoid risk here but we can and do mitigate against it.” The patrol leader indeed decides against going to Novoluhanske, going instead to Luhanske, where they find a village like so many others not directly on the contact line but very much directly im- pacted by it. It’s out of range of most of the weapons systems deployed and so its residents, unlike many others in other places closer to the fighting, have not fled. They refuse to leave homes they’ve been in for generations, even though the coal mines that sustained them no longer operate and the land, once part of the bread basket of Europe, yields but a meagre livelihood. Having interviewed a number of people and filled in more de- tails in the evolving village profile the team is compiling – much of which is shared with humanitarian providers – Steve and the rest of the patrol set out for base. “It’s sad”, he notes. “You cross the contact line, and you’ll see the same people there in the same situation; people just trying to get on in life.” “Nobody needs this”, he adds as he focuses on getting the patrol back safely, watching out not least for Ladas and potholes.

11  MAKING CONNECTIONS ON THE CONTACT LINE

DONETSK REGION

12 The COVID-19 pandemic has limited SMM patrols in eastern Ukraine, but for Mariupol-based monitor Lejla Helic, one priority remains unchanged: interacting with people in Donbas, listening and responding to, and reporting on their concerns as they go about their lives on the contact line. “When I am out on patrol, people tell me about their problems – no water, no electricity, shelling, fear and isolation – and it is very important to show them that I care and that I will do what I can to help,” Lejla, a 49-year-old monitor from Tuzla in Bosnia and Herzegovina, says. On a recent Saturday, she served as patrol leader for a group of monitors travelling to some of the hardest hit settlements along the line of contact near Mariupol: Chermalyk, Hranitne and Starohnativka. Before departing, Lejla performs the daily ritual of donning her bullet-proof vest and helmet, then adds a face mask and rubber gloves – a defense against the viral threat which has appeared in Ukraine and across much of the world. These are just a few of the stringent mitigation measures the SMM has introduced in response to COVID-19, which also include strict adherence to social distancing rules in the office and on patrol, daily temperature checks and minimizing the number of personnel inside the armoured vehicles. As a result, the Mission continues to operate all of its hubs and forward patrol bases in Donbas, allowing it to send daily patrols to the contact line – albeit in reduced numbers – and perform remote monitoring with cameras and unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV). “For us, the key is flexibility. We can still talk to the locals, but we have to keep our distance; everyone accepts it,” she says. In order to reach the settlements, the patrols must pass through several police and military checkpoints, but with a quarantine in effect, there are few civilian vehicles and wait times are short. They stop for an hour in Starohnativka, using a UAV to monitor the security situation, before doubling back to Hranitne, a small settlement of one-storey whitewashed houses close to the Kalmius River.

13 14 Lejla and her team position heavily damaged earlier in the themselves near the river, conflict. Now everything is in speaking to residents about good shape, but his daughter the security and humanitarian and grandson moved away to situation. stay out of harm’s way. “Last night was a good “When is the fighting going night; we could sleep,” a pen- to end?” he asks. sioner tells her, adding that She has been asked this a morning thunderstorm has question many times since knocked out the power supply. joining the Mission in 2017. Lejla takes note of this key There is no easy answer. Still, piece of information in case it the pensioner is glad to have will be necessary to support found a sympathetic ear, and the co-ordination of any as she leaves, Lejla promises repair works, before the patrol to come again. climbs back in their vehicles Before they depart, several and drives on to Chermalyk. residents confirm that the Here, their task is to confirm water supply has been cut that the village water supply again, providing more infor- has been cut again after repair mation for the patrol report, works were carried out a week one of dozens produced daily earlier. It was the first time in by SMM patrols. two months that the system Later that evening when she had worked. is back in Mariupol, Lejla thinks The patrol spots an elderly back on the day’s patrol; the man in front of his house, and checkpoints on the way to the Lejla and her colleague Evgeny contact line, the Kalmius River decide to approach him. Before and the old man in Chermalyk. they have time to ask him She adds the information about the water supply, he de- about the water supply to cides to tell them his story. He her report, hoping that when worked abroad for five years she meets him again it will be in order to earn enough money restored. to build his house, which was

15  A VIEW FROM ABOVE

LUHANSK REGION

16 It is a Wednesday morning at the SMM always wanted to do this. It’s a new Patrol Hub in Sievierodonetsk, Luhansk challenge for me, so I was really keen to region. A technical monitoring team, join this team,” he explains. having just had a briefing on the securi- The high-risk patrol is heading to ty situation along the contact line, is al- Zolote, an area where the sides decided most ready to move. Marzena is loading to disengage forces and hardware fol- the last of the gear into an armoured lowing an agreement at the Trilateral vehicle. As she finishes, Ian, the patrol Contact Group in October 2019. leader, gathers the small group to- Nowadays Zolote is relatively calm – in gether to make sure everyone is on the stark contrast to when it was once one same page. “Today we’ll conduct two of the most kinetic areas in Luhansk flights with mini and mid-range UAVs, region. and weather permitting, maybe more,” “It’s quiet now, thankfully, but still he says. “We move in 10 minutes.” highly unpredictable,” says Ian as the Ian, from the UK, has worked with un- patrol moves into position inside the manned aerial vehicles (UAVs) for many disengagement area an hour after years. While posted in Afghanistan, he leaving the patrol hub. “And, of course, analysed imagery taken by UAVs, but it there’s always the unseen lurking in the was not before he joined the SMM that grass: mines.” he started flying them himself. “I had

An SMM monitoring officer flying an unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV). (OSCE/Athanasios Kaltsis)

17 Since late July 2020, with the security “With freedom of movement severely situation relatively improved following restricted, especially in the last year, the Trilateral Contact Group adopting and the danger posed by mines to SMM measures to strengthen the ceasefire, ground patrols, UAV flights like this one the Mission has recorded three civilian are a critical component in the Mission’s casualties in eastern Ukraine as a result monitoring and reporting,” she says. of shelling. However, there has been 38 “Since we started using UAVs in 2014, civilian casualties due to mines and un- we’ve conducted over 13,000 flights. exploded ordnance. “People are scared,” Last year alone, more than half of the Ian says, as he looks out across empty weapons in violation of withdrawal fields, where farmers once worked the lines were recorded by SMM UAVs. Most land to earn a living and feed the local of the large mine fields we record are population. “As well as signs of military spotted by our UAVs, too.” presence and fortification, today we’re After numerous flights, Marzena here to identify mines. They are in the lands the aircraft, and breathes what ground. The best way – and the safest seems like a small sigh of relief. The way – to see and map them is from the Mission does not inform the sides of air.” the flight route, the monitoring ob- Marzena, a Polish national and senior jective or the exact location of a UAV. police officer by background, has re- However, before a UAV flight is con- ceived special training to be a UAV pilot. ducted, the Ukrainian Armed Forces After working for international mis- officers at the Joint Centre for Control sions in Kosovo and Georgia, she felt it and Co-ordination, as well as the armed was time to move in a new direction, so formations, are notified in which sector she decided to engage with technology, the flight is to take place. This is done and seized the opportunity to become to avoid confusion and mitigate the risk a UAV operator in the SMM. Being the for the SMM’s patrols. “Still, our UAVs only woman on the team, she says that get shot at quite often”, Marzena ex- she wants to encourage female col- plains, “and we put that into our daily leagues to consider such positions reports.” Marzena flies the mini-UAV – a quad- Since the SMM started flights, there copter – with ease, some 100 metres have been over 200 instances in which above the ground, scanning and taking SMM UAVs have been fired upon, and in details that will be analysed, initially 1,600 instances in which they’ve been back at the hub and later by imagery jammed. The Mission has lost several analysts in the SMM Head Office in Kyiv. aircraft. “There’s risk every time,” she

18 says, “but they minimize the risks to to start their journey back to the Patrol SMM’s monitoring officers.” Hub, Andrii, the local driver who has The patrol moves on to a second loca- worked for international organizations tion, where they conduct another flight, since 2014, looks across the eastern this time using a mid-range fixed-wing Ukrainian landscape, feeling the breeze aircraft, but high wind soon forces them on his face. “Wind of change,” he says. to land. As they load up and are about “Let’s hope” Ian replies.

19  THE FULL PICTURE: AN ALL-FEMALE SMM PATROL ON THE CONTACT LINE IN EASTERN UKRAINE

DONETSK REGION

20 The conference room in the in the vicinity of Novhorodske OSCE Special Monitoring Mis- and Verkhnotoretske since ad- sion (SMM) to Ukraine’s Kram- ditional measures adopted by atorsk Hub used to buzz with the Trilateral Contact Group to activity in the morning; no lon- strengthen the ceasefire came ger. COVID-19 measures mean into effect on 27 July 2020. that security and operations Overall, along the contact line, briefings are now limited to the daily average of observed patrol leaders. One of them ceasefire violations so far in this morning is Monika, who is March is 93 per cent lower than preparing to lead a patrol to in March 2020. the contact line. In and around the two vil- As Monika, seconded from lages, the SMM has noted a the Polish Customs Service, relatively calm situation, but gets the latest security recent developments are update and arranges logistics, cause for concern, Monika ex- Christine, Diana and Eddrina, plains. Since the beginning of the three patrol drivers, are in the year, she notes the Mission the parking lot, ensuring that has observed 40 ceasefire vi- the electronics work, the tyres olations, including six explo- are in good condition and all sions in the area. Further north, the required gear is loaded. in the western and northern They are about to embark on a outskirts of Horlivka, it is even high-risk, three-vehicle patrol more volatile, with the Mission to the villages of Novhorodske recording 349 ceasefire viola- and Verkhnotoretske. In ad- tions, including 49 explosions, dition to poor road conditions, in the same period. “Things are compounded by often-treach- certainly better,” says Monika, erous ice, the all-female patrol “but people here still face faces an unpredictable se- insecurity.” curity situation. Preparation is To mitigate the risk, among therefore vital. a host of measures, the patrol In line with the general se- has a paramedic on board, curity situation along most and before departure for the of the contact line, there has contact line, each member been a notable improvement dons a flak jacket, helmet, and

21 Monitoring officers on patrol in Verkhnotoretske, Donetsk region. (OSCE/Monika Olszewska)

– given the specific risk from COVID-19 they live with trauma. Women and – a facemask. children especially open up more easily; As they move west, Eddrina, the they are more relaxed.” “This enables us Kramatorsk Hub leader, manoeuvres to provide a fuller picture of the actual one of the five-ton armoured vehicles situation on the ground,” she adds. with skill and alertness. A former Before entering Novhorodske, the American police officer who has worked patrol stops to fly an unmanned aerial with the United Nations in Kosovo and vehicle (UAV) and check on a new Haiti, she has no higher priority than the makeshift mine sign that Christine, a safety and security of her team. Also in German monitoring officer with a back- the vehicle is Maka, a monitoring officer ground in human rights, noticed a few who joined the SMM in 2016 after over a days earlier. Fiona, a British military of- decade of working in the humanitarian ficer and expert UAV operator, prepares field in her native Georgia. She ex- the drone but the flight fails due to a plains the added value of female moni- lack of GPS signal. toring officers. “Generally, women have In Novhorodske, the patrol hears greater access to different interloc- from the head of the town council. utors,” she says. “People are vulnerable; He, like all the residents, is concerned

22 about increased military activity, which round trip of hundreds of kilometres recently resulted in damage to houses to visit people who are sometimes lit- and the local cemetery. He asks for the erally within shouting distance. “The SMM’s assistance to enable the repair journey is costly and time consuming,” of a damaged large water pipeline says Diana, an SMM monitoring officer running across the contact line. The from Canada, as she points to a mine- damage has been limiting the commu- field, “but the alternative entails a nity’s access to potable water for weeks. heavy price in civilian lives.” Given the Since 2014, the SMM has been daily reduced level of violence following last facilitating adherence to localized year’s TCG decision to strengthen the ceasefires — “windows of silence” — ceasefire, the number of civilians killed to ensure the repair and operation of or injured from shelling has drastically critical civilian infrastructure providing decreased, she explains, but mines and water, gas and electricity to millions of unexploded ordnance continue to maim people on both sides of the contact line. and kill. In 2020, the Mission organized 1,573 At the recently-renovated House windows of silence for repairs of 119 of Culture, the patrol finds a different critical civilian infrastructure facilities mood. “The renovation is finally com- in Donetsk and Luhansk regions. “The plete,” explains the centre’s director. SMM facilitation efforts are vital for the She says that the community had restoration of access to services critical been waiting since 2014 when shelling to the local civilian population,” ex- damaged the building. “It means we plains Eddrina as she takes note of the will be able to organize activities for man’s concerns. children and adults alike. We also re- The monitoring officers climb back ceived an out-patient clinic for basic in their vehicles, communicate their lo- medical assistance.” cation and movement via the radio, and As the patrol leaves Verkhnotoretske, Monika gives the signal for everyone to Monika gazes outside. “It’s the contra- head south to Verkhnotoretske. diction of life here,” she says. “Lines are On arrival, the patrol is confronted drawn dividing people, but everywhere by the harsh reality of life along the I see people coming together to make contact line. Just across the line is things better.” Betmanove, formerly known as Krasnyi Partizan, where neighbours, friends and even family are cut off by the contact line, forcing them to take a

23  TECHNICAL MONITORING ON THE CONTACT LINE: MAKING IT WORK FOR PEOPLE

DONETSK REGION

24 It is an early Monday morning in Mariupol, the biggest city on the south-eastern coast of Ukraine. While most people are just get- ting ready to start their day, Darko, a former border police officer from North Macedonia, is already on his way to the OSCE Special Monitoring Mission to Ukraine’s (SMM) Patrol Hub. Plenty of work is waiting for him, and there is no time to waste. Since Darko joined the SMM two years ago, he has worked as a camera and sensor expert. “The job is tough, but the opportunity to work with people from different countries and backgrounds is something I find very rewarding,” he says. Driving down tree-lined streets, Darko keeps the window of his car closed. Even though it is already warm outside, and the city is situated on the shores of the Sea of Azov, it is not a salty breeze that is filling the air. Mariupol is one of Ukraine’s most im- portant economic centres. Relying on its seaport, steel mills and chemical plants, the heavy industry has taken a toll on the city’s environment. Arriving at the Patrol Hub, Darko gathers the camera maintenance team for a briefing. Today they will visit the camera site in Shy- rokyne to do repair work. First introduced by the SMM in 2015, camera systems quickly became an important means of technical monitoring, along with unmanned aerial vehicles. Today, the Mission has 25 operational cameras along the nearly 500-kilometre contact line. While Monitoring Officers do not patrol after nightfall due to security reasons, the cameras have the technical capability to also record after dark, working around the clock. The cameras, along with other technical means, allow the SMM to do 24/7 monitoring, registering ceasefire violations and weapons in violation of the Minsk agreements. Since they were introduced, camera systems have picked up over 279,900 ceasefire violations. They are a cornerstone of the Mission’s technical monitoring capabilities, allowing it to fulfil the tasks assigned in its mandate and to support the implementation of the Minsk agreements. Therefore, the work of Darko and his colleagues is vital to the Mission.

25 Together with Artem, an engineer for The 25-kilometre journey takes them transmission equipment from Mariu- through the city’s eastern outskirts. pol, Darko belongs to the small camera Back in 2014, some of these areas were maintenance team in the Mariupol Pa- held by the armed formations. Mariu- trol Hub. Within the SMM, they have one pol is now a frontline city, with the con- of the more hands-on jobs. Equipped tact line less than a 30-minute car ride with bolt cutters, wrenches and various away. other tools, they are halfway between The patrol reaches Shyrokyne quickly. a maintenance crew and ICT experts. This camera site, like many others, is Their job is to make sure that the eight in a high-risk area. The SMM’s mainte- cameras they are responsible for are nance team needs security guarantees up and running. When they go on the from both the Ukrainian Armed Forces ground, it is all about grease, metal and and the armed formations before they diesel generators. can go on the ground. Looking at a huge screen back at On site, they are met by a demining the SMM Head Office in Kyiv, Jonas crew from the State Emergency Service Hult, Chief of the Technical Monitoring of Ukraine. Darko shrugs his shoulders. Centre, explains, that “making sure “Once a mine was found on the route that all SMM camera systems are oper- that we take to the camera location.” ational 24/7 is a critical task. Without And with a grim look on his face, he the strong commitment of the camera adds, “we need to be very careful in the maintenance teams and ICT colleagues, places where we work.” the Technical Monitoring Team would As they inspect the camera system, have difficulties fulfilling its role.” the team realizes that the mast has After loading their armoured ve- been badly damaged by shrapnel and hicles, the team sets off towards several segments need to be replaced. Shyrokyne. In addition to Darko, who Luckily, they have enough spare parts is the patrol leader, and Artem, there with them. Artem shakes his head. “If is another driver and a paramedic on we don’t come prepared, the camera board. will be down for days.” “When I applied for this job, I was Indeed, maintaining the camera keen on working with international systems is a demanding job. Every lo- colleagues,” Artem says. “At the same cation is visited at least twice a month. time, I had a feeling that through my Interrupted electricity supply, weather work for the SMM, I could make a con- conditions, wear-and-tear of the tribution to a peaceful resolution.” hardware and technical malfunctioning

26  The OSCE Special Monitoring Mission to Ukraine’s (SMM) camera system. (OSCE/Evgeniy Maloletka)

are problems that can arise. But then complain about problems with their there is also damage caused by ex- natural gas supply. Back in the car, plosions and small-arms fire. “In 2020 Darko explains, “We are a maintenance alone, we lost four cameras,” Artem crew, yes, but we also fulfil all the tasks says, while rearranging the cables. of regular monitoring officers. When we A couple of hours later, the team has notice a ceasefire violation, we report replaced the damaged segments of the it. When we meet civilians, we talk to mast. Though their hands are dirty and them about the situation in the area.” their faces covered in sweat, they are Gazing over the Sea of Azov from happy and satisfied. the passenger seat, Darko wraps up the On the way back to Mariupol, the day. “I feel good about what I do here. patrol stops in Lebedynske, a small set- With the skills I acquired in my pro- tlement, which saw heavy fighting back fession back at home, I can really be of in 2014. While buying water at the local help in this place. After all, my job is not shop, Darko talks to some civilians who just about cameras. It’s about people.”

27  BUILDING LONG-TERM RELATIONS

DNIPROPETROVSK REGION

28 The sky above Dnipro is clear on a Friday morning. Spring is awak- ening and bright sunbeams melt away the last pieces of ice on the city’s riverbanks. At the OSCE Special Monitoring Mission to Ukraine’s (SMM) offices, Darlene from the United States, her colleague Farahnoz from Tajikistan and Sasha, the team’s local language assistant, are preparing for a patrol. Darlene, one of the SMM’s longest serving Monitoring Officers, briefs her colleagues. Today, she, Farahnoz and Sasha will visit a centre for Internally Displaced Persons (IDPs) in Kamianske, north-west of Dnipro. “We’ll conduct a regular patrol to the IDP centre and talk to the residents about their socio-economic situ- ation,” Darlene says. Amongst the key tasks of the SMM’s Team in Dnipro is moni- toring the impact of the conflict on civilians, including the situ- ation of IDPs. Back in 2014, hundreds of thousands of people fled the conflict-affected areas of Donetsk and Luhansk regions in eastern Ukraine, leaving behind their homes to seek refuge in new and often distant parts of the country. According to of- ficial reports, there are about 1.5 million IDPs scattered across the country. Most of them are women, and many are still living in col- lective centers around Dnipro. The patrol is making its way through the morning traffic, driving down the city’s broad boulevards. While they are in the car, Sasha provides some information about the number of IDPs in the area. “There are six collective centers in three regions,” he says. “Some 73,000 registered IDPs live in the Dnipro region, 56,000 in Zaporizhia and over 6,000 in Kropyvnytskyi.” The scale of the problem in the area resonates with his colleagues.

29 After an hour’s drive, Darlene, Farahnoz and Sasha reach Kamian- ske. The city, whose name roughly translates to ‘the stony place’, is home to the metallurgy and chemical industry. The IDPs cen- tre is situated amidst soviet-style housing blocks. Between the modular living containers, laundry and some soft toys hang from washing lines that gently wave in the wind. Upon arrival, Olha, the centre’s administrator, meets the SMM team at the entrance. One can tell from the hearty welcome re- ceived that Darlene, Farahnoz and Sasha are no strangers to her. However, building such a good rapport was not easy at first. “It took a while before people spoke to us,” Darlene recalls. “When talking with IDPs, you need to be able to relate to them. The road is long with many a winding turn, until people start to open up.” Through regular patrols and in-person meetings, the Dnipro team have patiently managed to build relations with the resi- dents of the centre. “We would sit down and listen to the stories these people had to tell, where they come from, why they had to leave their homes and how life has been for them ever since,” Sasha says. After a short walk around the compound, the team sits down to hear from Olha about the situation in the centre since their last visit. Some 211 IDPs from Donetsk and Luhansk region (84 women, 76 men and 51 minors) are currently living in the centre. Amongst them are single mothers and pensioners. Many of them were already among the most vulnerable before the conflict began. “As scary as it may sound, the IDPs have settled down here. People have gotten used to this place and the circumstances,” Olha says. “One needs to keep in mind that these structures were not foreseen to be permanent, but many IDPs have been living in the centre for six or seven years,” Sasha adds. Lasting and durable solutions to housing is the most critical issue, but it is not the only problem IDPs encounter. Relationships with the host communities are also fundamental to their inte- gration. Oftentimes, they struggle to find jobs, because many

30 SMM team visiting IDP centre in Kamianske. (OSCE/Oleksandr Yevsieiev)

employers think that an IDP might leave after a short time. Similar problems occur concerning the availability of vacancies in local kindergartens for their children. While all of these things pose formidable challenges, the biggest one, Darlene believes, is emotional. “Many of the IDPs have suffered trauma, but are not willing to seek help, especially the men. A man seeking help from a psychologist may be quite stigmatized by society here.” The team slowly wraps up the conversation and says goodbye to Olha and some other residents of the centre. On the way back to Dnipro, they reflect on what drives them to continue working on this difficult topic. “I believe that everyone could become an IDP at some point in his or her life, so my ap- proach is to do my best to be of help by listening to and reporting on their needs,” Darlene says. From the passenger’s seat, Sasha adds with conviction, “What these people really need is to have equal access to their basic rights and to have stability, so that they can plan and build their future.”

31  A PLACE TO MINGLE – THE KAKHOVKA ROMA YOUTH CENTRE

KHERSON REGION

32 It’s just after 9 a.m. on a Friday in mid-July, but the outside temperature is already close to 30 degrees Celsius. Stephen, a Monitoring Offi- cer with the SMM’s team in Kherson, southern Ukraine, exhales deeply. “Looks like we’re in for another warm day,” he says. “I better brief the team soon, so we can get to our destination be- fore the midday heat.” Originally from Atlanta, Georgia in the United States, Stephen worked for many years as a Russian language interpreter before moving to Ukraine in 2015. He then joined the SMM in Mariupol in 2016 and eventually transferred to Kherson. Today, Stephen, along with Michele from Italy and Denys, the local language as- sistant, will visit a Roma youth centre in Kakhovka, run by a local NGO. The team finishes the patrol brief and starts heading northeast. The ride takes them through the outskirts of Kherson and up the stream of the Dnipro river. While they are in the car, Michele, an expert on human rights and who has been with the SMM for almost seven years after postings in Africa and Central Asia, provides some information on the centre that they will visit. “The organization is called ‘Romano Tkhan’, which roughly translates to ‘Roma Place’. They only recently started renovation at the centre, so the place is still under construction.” And,

33 with a spark in his eye, he adds, “I’m ex- an update to the SMM’s team on how cited to see how far they got since our work at the youth centre is proceeding. last visit.” Iryna Honcharova, the city council’s After a 90 minute drive, the team ar- secretary, and Viktor Zubkov, director rives at the premises of Romano Tkhan, of Kakhovka’s Center for Social Services, in the downtown area of Kakhovka, a are visibly proud. small city on the banks of a huge barrier Romano Tkhan is a pilot project with lake called, by some, the ‘Kakhovka Sea’. the Kakhovka municipality providing The youth centre itself is in a building, free space to the NGO. “The opening of which, over the decades, served as a the centre is certainly an excellent ini- hospital and a school. Dating back to tiative, but it can only be a first step. 1905, the place is registered as part of We hope that this will serve as inspi- the city’s cultural heritage. ration for others,” Iryna Honcharova Yanush Pachenko, the director of the explains. local NGO, greets Stephen, Michele “There are about 37,000 inhabitants and Denys at the entrance and guides in Kakhovka.” Denys, who used to work them through the building. Yellowed as an English language teacher before hangings peel off the walls. Old metal joining the SMM in 2014, translates the steps lead up to the first floor. One can words of Yanush Panchenko. “Some tell that time has taken its toll on this 500 of them are Roma, though, the house, which is now to be filled with life number might be higher, so a lot can once again. still be done.” Before starting Romano Tkhan in While the SMM’s team is shown 2017, Yanush Pachenko worked as a around the premises, Yanush Panchenko teacher at the local school. He quickly talks about the activities he plans to realized that the few classes taught in organize. Besides the promotion of Romani language for about 70 pupils, the Roma language and culture, the were not enough to share knowledge NGO intends to host a photo exhibition about Roma culture. “I felt the desire about the history of the Roma com- to create a space that would be open munity in the Kakhovka area. “We will to both Roma and Ukrainian youth. also open a sports ground next to the Ukrainian kids should have the chance building,” Panchenko says. Ultimately, to see how rich Roma culture is.” he hopes that the work of the centre Today, two representatives from will foster stronger ties and help the the local city council join Yanush mutual understanding between the Panchenko. Together they want to give communities in Kakhovka.

34 Representative of ‘Romano Tkhan’ and SMM Monitoring Officer Stephen at the youth centre in Kakhovka. (OSCE/Michele Ricca)

After some two hours, Stephen and the team slowly wrap up the conversation, thanking Yanush Panchenko and Kakhovka’s city representatives for their time and get on the road to Kherson. Back at the SMM’s offices, the team collects their notes to prepare the patrol report. What Stephen, Michele and Denys agree on is how impressed they are with what the team of Romano Tkhan has achieved. “One has to remember that these people are all volunteers,” Michele says. “They paint the walls, install new electrical equipment and refurbish the place top to bottom. It’s fair to say that they are building this youth centre from scratch.” Stephen nods, “Their work contributes to mutual understanding. That deserves great respect.”

35  PREPARING FOR THE JEWISH NEW YEAR: SMM ON PATROL IN UMAN

KYIV REGION

36 The sun is barely up on this Wednesday morning in early Au- gust, but Borisa, Team Leader of the SMM’s Monitoring Team in Kyiv, and Yaroslav, the team’s language assistant, are al- ready in the car and on the highway. With them are Pascal from Germany and Mariia from Ukraine who work with the Mission’s Human Dimension Unit. The four-member team is bound for Uman, a city in the southwest of Cherkasy region, halfway between Kyiv and Odessa. Borisa, who was born in the Bosnian capital of Sarajevo and coordinated UNESCO’s work in the Middle East before joining the SMM, explains the task for today’s patrol. “Every year, Hasidic Jews make the pilgrimage to Uman on the oc- casion of the Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashanah. Their number has grown continuously. We’ll talk to the city authorities and representatives of the Hasidic community to find out how they are preparing ahead of this year’s celebrations.” The drive to Uman takes almost three hours. While passing by lush hills, fields of sunflower and sweet corn, Mariia, who is on her first patrol, gets some background information from Yaroslav. After years of working in business consulting, Yaroslav became a translator for the Mission in 2014. He has been to Uman many times and is familiar with the city and its history. “In the 19th century, Uman was one of the most important spiritual centers of Jewish life in Ukraine. Rabbi Nachman, founder of the Breslov Hasidic movement, died there in 1810. Legend has it that he once told his students, ‘Make sure that you are with me for Rosh Hashanah, no matter what!’ and ever since, pilgrims come to Uman to celebrate the Jewish New Year in his honor.” The team arrives in Uman and heads to the mayor’s office. Only recently elected, Iryna Pletnova has decided to take on some of the city’s most pressing problems, one of them being infrastructure. “Water supply, waste collection, repairing the municipal roads, that is what I am concerned about, also be- cause it matters a lot to the pilgrims,” Pletnova says, adding

37  that even though things have improved not look different from other streets in a lot in recent years, there is still a lot the city except for all of the shops and of work to be done. “The city has al- restaurants have signs and advertise- located several millions of Hryvnia to ments out front in the Hebrew alphabet. ensure that everything is in good shape The team arrives at the offices of the for Rosh Hashanah.” Rabbi Nachman Foundation where the As the meeting continues, Mariia director, Nathan Ben-Nun, greets them asks the mayor about the number of at the entrance. “Allow me to explain pilgrims that are expected to come this the meaning that Rabbi Nachman’s year. teachings have for us,” Ben-Nun begins. “You need to keep in mind that this “According to his philosophy, believers is the largest gathering of foreigners should speak to God in simple lan- in all of Ukraine,” Mayor Pletnova says. guage, as they would to a friend. That “Most pilgrims are from Israel. Others is one of the reasons why he became an come from the United States, Canada acclaimed spiritual leader and why fol- and various countries of Europe. In lowers of the Breslov Hasidic movement 2019, Uman hosted almost 27,000 pil- gather at his grave for Rosh Hashanah.” grims. In 2020, they could not come be- Still, Ben-Nun is aware that the cause of COVID-19 restrictions. So this Hasidic community faces some worldly year, we expect up to 50,000 people.” problems during the time of the pil- After an hour of conversation, Borisa, grimage. “The infrastructure of Uman Yaroslav, Pascal and Mariia thank was never planned to meet the needs of Uman’s mayor for her time and say their so many people. That is why, during the goodbyes. They decide to leave the days of Rosh Hashanah, water supply car parked and walk to their meeting and waste collection pose a challenge.” with the representatives of the Rabbi Just like Uman’s mayor Pletnova, Nachman Foundation. Strolling down Ben-Nun acknowledges that progress the streets, sidelined by picturesque has been made over the past years. “At houses dating back to the turn of the the time of Rosh Hashanah, both the twentieth century, feels like traveling Jewish community and the city’s au- back in time. thorities work at full capacity to ac- Some 20 minutes later, they reach commodate the needs of the local pop- Uman’s Jewish quarter. With kids ulation and the pilgrims,” he says with playing football in the yards, dogs certainty. “However, the lines of com- barking and laundry drying in the munication between the parties in- summer sun, this little side street does volved are sometimes not quite clear.”

38 Kyiv Monitoring Team with HDU colleagues on patrol in Uman (OSCE/Johannes Rueger)

Pascal, a German monitor with over 20 years of experience in in- ternational organizations, suggests Ben-Nun to meet again, in order to discuss the topic further. With the meeting coming to an end, the SMM’s team and Ben-Nun agree to stay in close contact over the coming weeks. As the team walk back to their car to start the return journey to Kyiv, Borisa shakes his head in disbelief. “It is hard to imagine that this place will be buzzing with tens of thousands of pilgrims any day now.” And with a smile, Mariia adds “I guess this means that we will be back soon.”

39 MULTICULTUR- ALISM AS A STRENGTH — ON PATROL IN ZAKARPATTIA

IVANO-FRANKIVSK REGION

40 On a warm summer day, the OSCE Spe- patrol starts from the heart of the cial Monitoring Mission’s office in Iva- city, where the SMM office is located, no-Frankivsk buzzes with activity from and heads south-west. Ahead are six the early hours as the monitoring team hours on winding roads, climbing up is about to set off for the long-range the Carpathian mountain range, amid patrol to Zakarpattia, Ukraine’s west- forests of silver firs and flower-strewn ernmost region. The security briefing alpine meadows. highlights no major concerns, and con- Zakarpattia sits at the confluence of tact with the local police confirms that four international borders—Romania, the situation in the area of responsibil- Slovak Republic, Hungary and the ity—Ivano-Frankivsk, Ternopil and Za- Republic of Poland—and its geography karpattia regions—remains calm. David, has shaped its history. The western re- the team leader, discusses the details of gions are Ukraine’s most diverse; pre- the route and the schedule of meetings Second World War central Europe was a with the Mission’s Deputy Chief Monitor melting pot lying within the fluctuating (DCM) Antje Grawe, who is joining the borders of states as different as the two-day journey. Austro-Hungarian Empire, Poland and “We have regular five-day patrols Romania. The region’s ethnic, religious on a rotation system,” explains David, and linguistic diversity mirrors this his- who served in the French military toric legacy. In line with the Mission’s for 25 years. “These are intense days mandate, the patrol is set to monitor during which we meet a wide array of the situation of minorities—Hungarian, representatives from civil society in- Jewish, Roma and Romanian, among cluding women rights groups, persons others — through a series of meetings belonging to minorities and local au- with regional authorities, civil society thorities, establishing important representatives and minority represen- relationships.” tatives themselves. In the parking lot, Anatolii and Denes It is a visit DCM Grawe is looking thoroughly check the three vehicles: forward to, she says, as she reads files tyres and support equipment, including and reports, challenging the road’s first aid, for the long journey. A trans- twists and turns. With a background parent shield between the front and in conflict prevention and resolution, the back seats completes the COVID-19 human rights and development issues, mitigation measures. When all is ready, largely with the German Government they sit at the steering wheels, with and the United Nations, she served in David being the third driver, and the countries like Afghanistan and Haiti.

41 OSCE SMM Deputy Chief Monitor Antje Grawe with Ivano-Frankivsk Monitoring Team and SMM interlocutors in Uzhgorod. (OSCE)

“The SMM is mandated to monitor and and we interact with civil society and support respect for human rights and minority communities, like, for example, fundamental freedoms, including the the Hungarian, Jewish and Roma rep- rights of persons belonging to national resentatives we are meeting today, to minorities,” she explains. “The Mission learn how these policies affect each is also tasked to facilitate dialogue on community.” the ground, in order to reduce tensions. As the patrol enters Uzhhorod, a Hence, we engage with a wide range of city of 115,000 people, which serves as people, in the meticulous work of moni- the regional centre, it heads to the ad- toring and reporting, which allows us to ministration where Regional Governor follow developments, connect the dots Anatoliy Poloskov and his deputy and have a unique big picture.” Ishtvan Patruska welcome the team. David nods in agreement. “It is the Multiculturalism is one of diplomacy of the little steps, as we call Zakarpattia’s strengths and a core it in French,” he says. “We talk to au- feature of daily life, notes Poloskov, as thorities, like the regional Governor, he briefs the team on socio-political to understand how decisions at the developments in the region. central level are implemented locally,

42 “We engage in regular meetings with each community’s represen- tatives,” the Governor explains, adding that these interactions offer the opportunity to address challenges and discuss collabo- ration on key issues, while also functioning as a valuable preven- tion mechanism. Deputy Governor Petrushka agrees, a member of a Hungarian community, which accounts for about 12%of the re- gion’s population. Wrapping up the intense one-hour long discussion, the team leaves the regional administration to meet a representative of the Roma community. A stroll down the streets rich with history brings them to Miroslav, a Roma activist. He sits on Uzhhorod’s city council where he represents the rights of Roma in Zakarpattia, which is the region with the largest number of Roma community members in Ukraine. A respected sociologist, Miroslav says that the government’s strategy on the rights of Roma, which set goals for the community’s integration through 2030, provides a valuable roadmap to support the com- munity. However, he notes, much remains to be done to protect Roma from cases of discrimination and acts of violence. As the meeting draws to an end, David and DCM Grawe reflect on the valuable information they gathered, which will be reflected in the patrol reports, one of dozens produced daily by the Mission. “Visiting Zakarpattia is a journey into the pages of a history book about Europe in the 20th century and how it has impacted people’s lives,” reflects Grawe as the patrol is leaving the region. “What emerges during all the meetings is a real sense of togeth- erness, a peaceful cohabitation, which does not make headlines in the media, but on which the region thrives.”

43  GAINING A DEEPER UNDERSTANDING OF KHARKIV’S ROMA COMMUNITY

KHARKIV REGION

44 The morning in the OSCE SMM’s office in Kharkiv starts with the usual bustle. Monitoring officers are working on out the day’s schedule and get- ting ready for an important meeting. Today, Mykola Burlutskyi, Head of the Roma NGO “Chachimo” will visit. The team hopes to gain a deeper understanding of the issues of concern to the Roma community in Kharkiv region and the new Strategy for Promoting the Realization of the Rights and Opportunities of Persons Belonging to the Roma National Minority. Olga, Kharkiv’s Team Leader, will head the meeting. Originally, from Moldova, she joined the Mission in 2015, serving as a Donetsk Team Leader, before she moved to Kharkiv. Whilst the team prepares for the visit, Olga reflects on her experience in the OSCE: “I joined the SMM with a clear objective – to personally contribute to peace and security in Ukraine.” Richard, a lawyer from the UK, who has been with SMM as a Monitoring Officer for some years, lays out his expectations for the meeting. “I am glad to meet Mr Burlutsky”, Richard says. “He is very knowledgeable regarding the sit- uation of the Roma community in our area of responsibility.” Soon, Mykola Burlutskyi arrives and is wel- comed by the SMM’s team. In line with the Mission’s COVID-19 measures, everyone is wearing masks. Mr Burlutskyi is the head of the NGO “Chachimo”, which translates to “The Truth”. Founded in 2005, the NGO’s aim is not only to tackle the security and education related issues of Roma living in the Kharkiv region, but also to

45 Kharkiv MT at a meeting with Mykola Burlutskyi, Head of the Roma NGO “Chachimo”. (OSCE)

better integrate community members faiths such as Orthodox, Protestant, into Ukrainian society. and Islam.” Mr Burlutskyi goes on to After introductory remarks, Mr say: “Whilst there are no disputes Burlutskyi shares the some updates on amongst the different Roma groups, his community. their participation in Kharkiv’s political He explains that the Roma in Kharkiv life is low with only one of the twelve region face specific challenges, further being formally represented in the local complicated by the fact that around administration.” 12 different ethnic Roma groups live According to unofficial estimates, ap- in the area, each with their own lan- proximately 7,000 Roma live in Kharkiv guage, customs, and traditions. Barons, region. The census from 2001 revealed traditional Roma leaders, solve the that the total number of Roma living community’s minor problems inter- in Ukraine was 47,500. The number of nally. “They have the last word on dis- Roma in the region increased by some putes, whilst the local courts are not 2,000 after the conflict started in 2014, involved,” he explains. “The religion of with IDPs arriving from Luhansk and the 12 Roma ethnic groups also differs, Donetsk. While half of them gradually with members representing various

46 moved to Western Ukraine in pursuit of jobs, the other half even- tually returned to their places of origin. The Roma now living throughout the wider Kharkiv region face multiple challenges: from a lack of access to employment, edu- cation and healthcare, to the fact that many do not have the nec- essary documentation to prove their identity or place of residence. Whilst the previous Ukrainian Government 2014-2020 Strategy for the Protection and Integration of Roma National Minority tried to tackle some of these issues, unfortunately, many are yet to be resolved. “The most positive outcome of the previous strategy was that it brought the community closer to the local and regional admin- istration”, Mr Burlutskyi says. Despite the current challenges faced by the Roma, Mr Burlutskyi is hopeful for the future. Some members of the community are starting to adopt a proactive approach in Kharkiv’s political life, for example by engaging with the local authorities, in order to help their community. While Olga and Richard ask more questions about ongoing de- velopments, Mr Burlutskyi points out that the new 2030 Strategy has a real potential to address some of the shortcomings of the previous one and create new possibilities for a better integration of the Roma community in the Kharkiv region. After the meeting finishes, Olga and Richard accompany their visitor out of the SMM’s premises. “It was good that we had this gathering,” Richard says. “I believe such meetings are crucial to maintain good interpersonal relationships and earning the trust of our interlocutors.” “This was important for me too”, Olga remarks. “Now we have a much better understanding of the issues that Chachimo’s team is working on every day.”

47  WEALTH FOUND IN DIVERSITY: ON PATROL IN THE CHERNIVTSI REGION

CHERNIVTSI REGION

48 It is an unusually fresh August morning, dialogue facilitation in her native North and Violeta, Yves, and Costel, monitor- Macedonia as well as in Ireland, Violeta ing officers with the SMM’s Monitoring has found the work of the Mission in Team in Chernivtsi in western Ukraine, Chernivtsi rewarding. warm their hands on their cups of cof- “This is Ukraine’s smallest admin- fee as they discuss the plan for to- istrative region by size, and one of day’s patrol with their colleagues, Na- the most diverse,” Violeta, an Irish- talia and Andriy. They have a busy day Macedonian national says as she keeps ahead that will take them first to Ma- her eyes on the road. “The 19th and hala, a village where the Romanian mi- 20th centuries left their mark on the nority make up most of its inhabitants. human geography of the region, which The team will monitor developments is home to dozens of different commu- related to the decentralization process nities. Its wealth lies in its diversity of and then have a meeting with repre- languages, faiths, and cultures.” sentatives of the Jewish community in Yves, a Belgian national who has re- the city. cently moved from Sievierodonetsk to The two-car patrol makes its way Chernivtsi, agrees. through morning traffic, passing in “The SMM’s human dimension work is front of historic buildings including the different here in comparison to the ac- renowned university, a UNESCO World tivities in the conflict-affected areas Heritage site. Chernivtsi National of Donetsk and Luhansk regions,” he University was founded in 1875 when says. “To fulfil our mandate, we engage the city was the capital of the Duchy of with local authorities, as well as with Bukovina, part of the Austro-Hungarian civil society, to monitor and support Empire. At the time, the city was called respect for human rights and funda- Czernowitz, one of six different names mental freedoms, including the rights it has had in the past two centuries. of persons belonging to national mi- Each of its subsequent rulers spoke a norities. Today’s patrol reflects these different language, and each language mandated tasks.” left its imprint on the city, its name and The car exits the city boundaries, its residents. heads west and arrives shortly after Chernivtsi is over 1,000 kilometers crossing the Prut river. Mahala lies only away from Luhansk where both Yves seven kilometeres from Chernivtsi, and and Violeta worked when they first ar- yet the atmosphere here feels different. rived to the Mission. With two decades The settlement serves as the centre of experience in human rights and of the Territorial Community (TC), which

49 comprises five villages where both Ukrainians and members of the Romanian minority, all citizens of Ukraine, live together. “TCs are new administrative entities established by the decen- tralization process, which started in 2014 and during which settle- ments have been merged and given more powers and financial re- sources,” Violeta explains. “This community is a shining star,” she adds. “Two village councils, a Romanian-speaking council from Mahala and a Ukrainian-speaking council from Ridkivtsi decided to work more closely together and voluntarily merged. In 2017, this community was far ahead in implementing the process of de- centralization, compared to bigger ones elsewhere in the country.” Olena Nandrish, a representative of the TC council explains that the merger unlocked resources that allowed the council to renovate or build key infrastructure from scratch. “The territorial community now has three schools and six kin- dergartens, in addition to three medical facilities and two cultural centres. These facilities are important, not least because, since 2008, the population in the five villages has increased by about ten percent, so there was a growing need to provide more ser- vices,” she adds. She guides the team through Mahala’s cultural centre, which in- cludes an amphitheater used for the TC’s council sessions as well as for other cultural events, a library, and a museum containing artefacts dating back to the late 1800s. As the meeting comes to an end, the team and Nandrish agree to stay in touch and meet again in the near future, to discuss further developments related to the decentralization process. The team leaves the green hills behind and heads back to Chernivtsi. “It is fulfilling to work on human dimension issues,” Violeta re- flects once in the car. “It gives me the opportunity to use and fa- cilitate a multidisciplinary and holistic approach to continuous development of people, communities and institutions.” Back in Chernivtsi, the team heads to the office of “Hesed- Shushana”, the Chernivtsi Region Charity Fund, where representa- tives of the Jewish community await them.

50 OSCE SMM on patrol in western Ukraine. (OSCE)

Today, Chernivtsi’s Jewish community is small, but it remains ac- tive and dynamic, numbering about 1,500 people. One school in Chernivtsi offers lessons in Hebrew. “Before the Second World War, Jews accounted for about 40 per cent of the city’s population and were well integrated into city life. Back then, Chernivtsi was part of Romania, and thanks to its Romanian mayor, about 20,000 Jews were saved from the Holocaust,” Illia Khoch, one of the community leaders, recalls. After bidding farewell, the team returns to the office. “Encounters like these help us to understand the added value of the Mission across the country,” Yves comments as he looks through the meeting notes. Violeta, who has been with the SMM since 2016, nods. “It is ful- filling to see how people of different backgrounds thrive in a multi- cultural environment like Chernivtsi’s,” she adds. “And it is a great satisfaction to contribute to the implementation of the Mission’s mandate: monitoring the respect for the rights of persons be- longing to national minorities.”

51  ALL HANDS ON DECK

ODESSA REGION

52 The rain, forecast to come ear- ly on 2 May, still has not ma- terialized as Christiane and Olegs from the SMM Odessa team approach Kulykove Pole in the southern Ukrainian port city of Odessa. Across the square, about 100 people are gathered outside the Trade Union building, fewer than in previous years be- cause of COVID-19 restrictions. They are chanting slogans and singing songs, expressing their sorrow about an event that took place there seven years ago. At the nearby, Saborna Square, around 1,200 people carrying Ukrainian flags, gathered and later walked to- wards Tarasa Shevchenka Park, where they delivered speeches and lighted flares whilst Ukraine’s anthem was played. The Trade Union building still bears the scars of that day when, on 2 May 2014, dozens of people lost their lives in confrontations that broke out in the wake of the Maidan events in Kyiv in February 2014, and culminating in a fire at the building that claimed dozens more. About 100 people gather near a banner on the

53 fence with names and photos a better understanding of the of people who died – flowers views about the events. In are spread on the asphalt. the run-up to the first anni- Olegs points to a members versary of the 2 May events, of the group wearing T-shirts the SMM organized a Dialogue with photos of people who Facilitation roundtable on 24 died on 2 May 2014, unfolding April 2015 with local activists, a flag of the city of Odessa as well as representatives from with a picture of burning Trade law enforcement agencies and Union building and white birds the Regional Administration. in the middle. It was a difficult meeting, but Christiane, a Deputy Team eventually the sides agreed Leader from Germany, checks to apply a number of mea- the messaging app she and sures to ensure that any ten- the entire SMM Odessa team sions could be diffused while are using to co-ordinate the allowing all groups to exercise five mobile patrols deployed their freedom of assembly. across the city. The patrol at This agreement has largely Soborna Square has moni- held, with the SMM doing work toring the gathering of people to revisit the agreement every carrying Ukraine’s flag and of year and supporting to contin- various organizations. uation of efforts, along with They are on the move, local authorities, to ensure all heading in the direction such gatherings take place as of Tarasa Shevchenka Park, planned and without incident. Christiane tells Olegs. He looks “This year, we met all key ac- at the lines of National Guards tivists, the police, the Security nearby. About 500 police of- Service of Ukraine, SBU and ficers were present throughout Odessa’s governor online or in the day securing the event. person and asked them about Lots of work and planning their plans, their expectations, has gone into making sure that and what security measures the day passes smoothly. As were being put in place,” says far back as 2015, the SMM has Christiane. “We must have held been organising dialogue fa- more than 20 meetings.” cilitation meetings to promote

54 OSCE SMM on patrol in western Ukraine. (OSCE)

The meetings also fed into SMM’s operational planning, and the decision to deploy five patrols across the city. “On 2 May, it’s all hands on deck,” says Christiane. There is a large police presence, with riot police and dialogue officers to deal with any eventuality. As it transpired, they were thank- fully not required. By around 15.30, the com- memoration was winding down. The speeches were made, the flowers were laid and many tears were shed. Balloons and doves had been released into the sky above the city. Christiane and Olegs, having completed their duty, are set to return to the base to continue working. “This is one of the days, when we remember why is SMM’s work is so important,” Christiane remarks.

55  A NEW HOME IN AN UNFAMILIAR PLACE: SMM REACHES OUT TO INTERNALLY DISPLACED PERSONS

LVIV REGION

56 Looking out the window of his flat in Arslan and Liliya set up the con- Lviv on an early Monday morning, Ar- ference room in accordance with the slan, a Monitoring Officer in the Lviv Mission’s COVID-19 safety regulations. Monitoring Team, reflects on what the They then review their notes, day may have in store for him. Today in preparation for the meeting. he and his colleague Liliya will meet “Monitoring respect for human rights Nataliya, the co-founder of the ‘Civ- and fundamental freedoms is an in- ic Movement of Donbas IDPs’, an NGO tegral part of our mandate,” Arslan that supports individuals, who have says, “We hope that, in our discussion been displaced by the conflict in east- with Nataliya, we will get some useful ern Ukraine, to integrate into their new updates on the work of her NGO.” local community. A few minutes later, the doorbell Originally from Kyrgyzstan with a rings. Nataliya enters the office and background in political sciences and in- is welcomed by Arslan and Liliya. The ternational relations, Arslan joined the three of them sit down and begin their SMM in 2021, after working for UNDP as meeting. a reporting officer and as a represen- Nataliya explains how she left her tative of civil society. hometown. With a degree in man- Arslan leaves his flat, making his way agement and economics, she used to down cobblestone streets already busy work as the director of a small trade with morning traffic. As he reaches the centre in Alchevsk, currently in the Monitoring Team’s office in the heart non-government-controlled areas of of the city, he meets up with Liliya, the Luhansk region. Right after the out- local language assistant. Before she break of the conflict, she left for Lviv came to work with the Mission, Liliya with her husband and their three taught English at the Ivan Franko children. National University in Lviv. Now, after “During the first days of our dis- more than two years with the SMM, placement, we all thought that it would Liliya has already become well -in- only be for a short period of time formed about IDPs in Ukraine. “There and we would return to our homes, are more than 11,000 registered IDPs “Nataliya says, “Very quickly though, I in the Lviv region,” Liliya says, “and ac- realized that we would have to stay for cording to official government reports, much longer.” in total about 1.5 million IDPs are lo- Nataliya noticed that most IDPs cated across the country.” faced similar challenges, so in 2015 she founded the NGO ‘Civic Movement

57 Lviv Monitoring Team member Arslan in exchange with ‘Civic Movement of Don- bas IDPs’ founding member Nataliya. (OSCE/Liliya Kushnir)

of Donbas IDPs’ with other IDPs. One of the organization’s main goals is to support IDPs in getting access to adequate, permanent housing. “Whoever has the means to do so will rent an apartment, but then most of their income is spent covering the rent. Most IDPs wouldn’t have much left over to cover more basic needs, such as food or clothing,” Nataliya explains. “In order to improve their sit- uation, we support IDPs to properly fill in and file all the docu- ments necessary to register for a plot of land, so they can build their own houses. The administrative procedures can be compli- cated and not everyone has the knowledge or resources to under- stand how to navigate the bureaucracy.” “Can you tell us how many IDP families have already been helped in this way, according to your statistics?” Arslan asks. “Approximately 22 land plots in the outskirts of Lviv were allo- cated to IDP families,” Nataliya says. “The construction of houses has not yet started, since none of these plots has the necessary in- frastructure.” It is for this reason that Nataliya and her colleagues

58  are working on a project to ensure that water, gas, and electricity are supplied to these plots. They have already secured a local au- thority grant of UAH 90,000 to develop a more detailed plan to provide essential infrastructure. Nataliya laughs: “Believe me, we have knocked on a lot of doors and will keep doing so.” As an IDP herself, Nataliya knows how much effort it takes to make all the changes necessary for people to feel at home again in a new environment. “It was difficult for me to settle in, also from an emotional perspective,” Nataliya admits. “Lviv is a very beautiful city, with lovely buildings. It has an opera and a well-re- spected university. It is rich in culture, history, and is nicknamed ‘little Vienna’ because of that. Thousands of tourists visit the city each year from all over Europe.” Even though, she still sometimes feels homesick for the life she left 1,300 kilometres away. “Alchevsk is an industrial city, founded only in the late 19th century. There are not many similarities with Lviv, but it used to be my home.” The meeting naturally comes to an end. Arslan and Liliya thank Nataliya for her visit and agree to meet again soon. As they walk out of the office, Liliya asks Nataliya if she could ever imagine returning back one day. Nataliya hesitates before answering, saying how difficult it is to contemplate a return in the present circumstances. “I do miss my friends there, but it has been more than seven years since we arrived in Lviv, and now my family and I have found comfort and happiness in this city.” After Nataliya has left, Arslan and Liliya reflect on the meeting. “It is amazing to see how much energy and passion one person has. Her determination to make a difference is inspiring,” Arslan says. Liliya agrees: “The efforts of people like Nataliya makes the journey of integration into new communities easier for IDPs.”

59  62 509 49 529 Total Patrols

8447 160 6392 6817 5973

5462

5175 4167 3618

2221 2247 22 948 26 171 25 026

Odessa MT

Lviv MT

Kyiv MT

Kherson MT

Kharkiv MT

Ivano-Frankivsk MT

Dnipro MT & DniproLogistics Base

Chernivtsi MT

SMM Long-Range UAV Team

Luhansk MT SMM Patrolling Statisctics Donetsk MT

Percentage Ratio of Patrols

2014 2015 2016 2017 (October–December)  Percentage of SMM patrols in Eastern Ukraine

59% 67% 71% 72% 72% 69% 74% 79%

310 Total Patrols Missionwide

2014 – 2021

25 627 27 917 16 199 14 175

46 051 Total Patrols in the Central and Western Ukraine

114 259 Total Patrols in Eastern Ukraine

2018 2019 2020 2021 (throught 25 October)